Choosing Love – Thank you Mother India/ Part 11

The Beach’s Blessings

Day 17 (Day 4 of the Wonder-Bike Adventure) – 6th May 2018

Today we are getting around 200 km under our belt, heading for Ullal Beach.

Pedro has had the most brilliant life-saving idea for me! By using the ladies’ footrest and his super handy red rope, he has tied the backpack to the side of the bike so I will no longer be carrying it on my back! That is a huge relief, especially when we will be travelling 200 km!

It is 7 am. We take a deep thankful breath and bid the lady of the house farewell.

Looking forward to finding out what it is like to bathe in the Arabic Sea. Somehow heading for the sea makes me feel like it will be a way of refreshing body and soul.

The way there is beautiful, as it has been every single day.

Mid-morning we stop for a bite and a rest and once again enjoy one of those special Indian breakfasts that last us until dinner. It is so very wise to eat something spicy right in the morning, to clear the whole body of any unwanted bacteria and liven up for the day.

While going down a curvy road we come across our first (and what will come to be our only) accident. And even this one was not a collision of vehicles but rather a truck that turned over on its own. Anyway, it is being taken care of and there are not many bystanders. Life goes on.

Though the journey is fairly long, the road is in good condition and we make steady progress.

First we stop at Someshwar beach and then head for Ullal. It is about 2 pm, scorching hot, yet we are brave and choose not to view the heat as negative, but just as a momentary circumstance we are willing to accept. No point not doing so.

Love whispers: the difference between the Mind's judgement and the Essence's discerning wisdom is that the first is exclusive and the second inclusive, therefore containing no negativity.

We start looking for a place to stay… which leads us on a local sightseeing ride, interspersed with a few inquisitive stops where we find out accommodation prices and conditions and then, as it were in India, a young man offers to take us to a good place. 

We are open to his guidance but in the end choose another place we had found initially ourselves.

Here everyone knows everyone, everyone gets a percentage from everyone and we are a rare commodity – foreign tourists. We have so far come across none! So whenever someone picks up on our foreign vibe, they are very glad to be of service, some to obtain something in exchange, others just because we are peculiar and they love to help.

We have come to find that Indian people are warm-hearted and caring, generally innocent, wise and we have definitely felt no hint of danger. We feel welcome, loved and honoured and that is such a wonderful gift! Thank you Mother India!

We stop on the way to the place we intend to stay at, in order to buy some soap to wash our clothes and we find this curious display of tiny packages of all sorts of washing gear and more -from hair to body to dishes to clothes to food -all in small proportions :) Like this we don't risk carrying a heavy load or wasting unused commodities.

We end up at Vazco Beach Resort, Uchilla Beach– a simple, clean and welcoming place, whose owner and receptionist are ever so kind.

Going into a room with air-conditioning is solace to the body and soul! Phew, what a relief!

A fresh shower, clothes washing ritual and a rest is in order.

It is only when we are exposed to extreme conditions that we come to cherish these “little nothings” that in fact are so much. We learn to take nothing for granted and to embrace each pearl of comfort that comes our way.

We rest until late afternoon and then take the young man who wanted to take us to a good hotel’s advice: watching the sunset at Someshwar Beach.

Apparently we are not the only ones! Many people have chosen to do exactly the same but this does not create any hindrance to us finding a good spot on the main viewpoint – a large rock at the edge of the sea.

We see many women of various creeds bathing fully dressed, children semi dressed and men ranging from dressed to just wearing shorts. I start to imagine what it might feel like to have those long black bhurkas soaking wet and clinging to the body – might be refreshing, on one hand, then again, washing all of that every day while on holiday and heading home with wet robes weighing you down might not be very comfortable. 

Above all I am fascinated by the diversity of people, all bathing in the same sea and I am sure that if I came along in a swimsuit I would be equally accepted, though it might be initially shocking, I suppose.

The sunset deserves its popularity as the best show in town, even though it is a bit cloudy.

We sit on the warm rock and just absorb the silent spectacle, thankful that the air is slightly fresher. 

Nature is by far my favourite performer, especially because in its humility, it offers its wonders with majestic grandness irrespective of our standing ovation and words of praise. I love it!

When we checked in we were asked whether we would be having lunch but instead we chose dinner so we know we will be having a fine meal when we get back, but not before I go for a dip in the Hotel’s pool! Watching everyone bathing has enticed my “swimbuds”.

Ah, life is good!

The meal is delicious – we eat tomato and asparagus cream soup, pulao rice, mushrooms and lemon soda, plus some pappads with peppermint sauce and a few more tasty delicacies. Hummm, our bellies are now as satisfied as our souls 😊

It’s time to rest, once again overflowing with Gratitude.

Tomorrow we intend to head up to Maravanthe beach, around 120 km further up…

Ah, yes, today the rain has come also to water our night's rest.

💙💚💛💜

Read Post 1 of this series here, post 2 here, post 3 here, post 4 here, post 5 here, post 6 here, post 7 here, post 8 here, post 9 here, post 10 here

Choosing Love – Thank you Mother India/ Part 10

Elephants, Monks and the eternal dance of Duality

Day 16 (Day 3 of the Wonder-Bike Adventure)– 5th May 2018

Six am and we are ready. It’s lovely to wake up fully relaxed and looking forward to another definitely beautiful day, always knowing it will give us only its very best.

We will be sleeping one more night here so for the first time I get to travel unhindered by the backpack, which means I only have to deal with my backside as it hasn’t yet fully adapted to so many hours of bike riding. But today it will be different. We will be riding less and seeing more on foot.

We want to make an early start in order to get to Dubare Elephant Camp for the elephant washing activity while it is still not so hot.

Temperatures have been over 40º C and though we have gotten accustomed to the heat, it is still challenging to be outdoors at peak hours as the moisture of daily heavy rain showers by night, mixed with high temperatures makes us feel sticky and breathing requires more stillness.

Coorg is a beautiful region of coffee, tea plantations and tropical rainforest. Cardomom and Pepper as well as other spices from this area are also much appreciated.

Since it is still very early, we head into Madikeri and go to the town’s park to see the spectacular view of the mountains. There are still not many people, but since it is holiday time, there are a fair amount of native toursits, even though it’s early in the morning. Everyone wants to get their fair share of beauty while it’s still “fresh” – over 30º C, but fresh when compared to later on in the day.

We breathe in the magnificence around us, thankful. And Love whispers: Love always finds its way to you when you open your heart to it.

With on open heart we make way for Dubare Elephant Camp where we will be able to participate in the morning elephant bath in the river.

We get there at around 8 am, park the bike and walk up to the place where there is supposed to be a boat that crosses to the other side.

When we get there, however, we realize it is too early and on the other hand we will not be crossing by boat because the water level is low, so we will be walking – stone stepping across. That will be fun!

Meanwhile we grab a bite for breakfast at the local restaurant and taste something delicious I can’t name but I leave you a link here about what people eat for breakfast in India :D

When the time comes, we cross over. We are amongst the very first to arrive.

My first impression when I see the first elephant coming down the hill is reverence for this majestic animal that exhudes wisdom with each step.

Then I see the chains on its legs and it saddens me that such a powerful specimen of Nature should be shackled like this.

The elephants come, one after the other and we get to touch them as they are washed by their carers and I am torn between gratitude for being in the presence of these amazing creatures, feeling them, honouring them and sadness for their lost sense of freedom as they are kept captive in this camp as a circus show, not being able to roam wherever and whenever they want, not being able to hide from the multitudes of people that keep on arriving, now a steady stream of visitors that grows and grows. Fortunately we came early!

I choose to take the beauty with me and accept the circumstances, respecting the local people’s practices of creating such a camp to entertain visitors. The positive side of this is that with forests dwindling, these elephants get to eat and to be treated with care on a daily basis, though at the expense of their freedom, which leaves me with mixed feelings, but as I said, in acceptance.

Our next stop is Namdroling Monastery – which  was established by His Holiness Pema Norbu Rinpoche after he came to India from Tibet and painstakingly worked with a handful of monks to create what is now known as The Golden Temple and subsequently the whole complex. The Dalai Lama then consecrated this holy place as "Namdroling Monastery." Today the monastery houses nearly 5000 monks and nuns - people from all over the world come to study Buddhism here. It is a place clearly and entirely dedicated to the teachings of wisdom and compassion of the Buddha.

It is around 11 am when we get there. The place is swarming with people, possibly because it is a Saturday today, apart from holiday season.

As we enter the Temples complex, the feeling of Peace – this place’s permanent resident – can be felt even under the overlay of the crowd’s buzz.

We enter each place in silence, though everyone is talking loud. We behave as if there were no one there and absorb the moment fully, no matter what. We eventually sit on the ground of the main Temple and just contemplate the inner silence, as if a sacred ceremony were going on, instead of the restless crowd of children and adults who are visiting this place as if it were a zoo or some other similar attraction show. Each one to their own way, each one to their own feeling. We compassionately stick to ours.

The moments spent in the Golden Temple, peacefully sitting on the ground in deep inner bliss were amongst the most memorable of this journey with Love whispering: Crystal clarity is at the reach of each Breath, here and now, in the everlasting Silence in your belly, where your Life Force, the Essence of Isness resides within All, for All, with All. Breathe and stay in the Love that you Are.

We stay for as long as we feel like it, until our cup is overflowing with the simple Essence of All that Is.

Beauty is the constant companion of our day.

We head for lunch at a restaurant on the other side of the road, lead by Tibetan monks and eat two of the most spicy dishes to date. I have come to enjoy spicy food by embracing it and even though each mouthful of this combination of rice and mushrooms sets my tastebuds on fire, I move beyond this until I can handle it and actually taste each ingredient in the dish.

I ask some young monks whether they speak English and whether they would allow me to interview them for our Linda’s School Facebook page, speaking about what it’s like to live at the Monastery, studying to follow the Buddhas footsteps. They smile, laugh but no one feels their English is up to the challenge so I have to pass this opportunity.

We cannot get on the bike right now because it is terribly hot so we browse around the shops and end up getting some coffee, tea and chocolate, which we sit outside savouring.

The heat has no intention of receding so we gather our guts and decide to head back “home” to our Homestay near Madikeri. It is only about 35 km…

I have not told you yet but we often get confronted with trucks and cars overtaking and heading right into us, to the extent that we sometimes have to move out of the road. Such is the driving folly here. Miraculously, we have seen no accidents yet. It is truly amazing how such a thing might be possible. I am definitely thankful we are riding on a two-wheeled vehicle that easily fits anywhere! And bikes are generally thought to be more dangerous! No way. I vouch that it is the safest form of travel in India.

As it is still early we decide to visit a place called Raja's Tomb in Madikeri, before going home. The GPS takes us for a bit of a ride bu we eventually find it. It is a beautiful and peaceful place which we once again visit in silence, enjoying the views and the serenity.

There are three tombs built for the royal dynasty. The central tomb which is the largest among the three is of Kodava king Doddaveerarajendra and his wife Mahadeviamma. The right tomb built by Chikkaveerarajendra for his father Lingarajendra in 1820 A.D. The left tomb belongs to Veerarajendra’s guru Rudrappa built in 1834 A.D.

Enough for today.

We get home at around 4 pm, tired of the heat but grateful. Always grateful.

Fashion Show of the Day :D

The house beside ours is getting ready for a party of some sort and a bus load of people arrives at the end of the afternoon, right when we were settling into the peaceful ambience of this place’s remote location

.

India – the constant contrast between enlightened silence and chaotic noise. I suppose that's what makes us love it so much :) 

As usual, we let it be. Acceptance is our permanent key. The rain will eventually come and its natural sound will drown all else.

And so it is.

💙💚💛💜

Read Post 1 of this series here, post 2 here, post 3 here, post 4 here, post 5 here, post 6 here, post 7 here, post 8 here, post 9 here

Choosing Love – Thank you Mother India/ Part 9

Day 2 of the Wonder-Bike Adventure

Day 15 – 4th May 2018

The day dawns quietly, fresh and pristine after the night’s heavy showers. The sun gets ready to shower its own radiance for the rest of the day, and the air is filled with the moisture of heat upon water, as the land dries.

After a tasty breakfast we are ready to head for Madikeri, our final destination for today.

Travelling with the backpack reveals itself a little bit more challenging than expected so I alternate between riding facing front or sideways, with my feet resting on a foot-rest that bikes here have so that ladies can ride while wearing Saris.

Today we turn the opposite way to the one we came and are presented with a splendid lake filled with lotus flowers, which we have to stop to admire.

And Love whispers: Wisdom is reflected in your world, only to the extent that it is flowing from within you. Allow and embrace it. It is your purest reflection.

We marvel in this fairy-like ambience for a while before carrying on. What a blessing for the day!

The road is infinitely better than the one we took to arrive here so had we found it yesterday, we would have avoided the bumpy ride. Then again, circumstances are as they are each moment. It is our choice whether to accept them or complain – which we never waste our precious energy on.

I don’t know whether people around here realise how lucky they are. They live surrounded by bountiful land, that generously produces food and income for all, life is calm and everything is clean, the scenery is beautiful and there is in fact nothing missing… For us, who have seen other places and done other things. But then comes the human need for more that leads many to cluster around gigantically inflated towns where reality is not quite so idyllic but where the illusion of earning a buck leads life into hyper-drive, on the roller-coaster search for that which has always resided within each One.

Alas, this is just the way Maya works – getting lost is part of finding the way back home. All is well in all of creation.

Riding on the back of a bike, just admiring the world passing by in silence, gives me plenty of time to contemplate. Being able to stay in this detached state of complete focussed awareness, where I observe and let go, while staying fully Present at all times, is one of the experiences I most cherish about long rides across unknown gound.

The quotient of beauty here is so high that I must one day come on a different kind of ride, stopping every so often just to take photos – especially of the people and their daily lives – fascinating, colourful, full. India is like a bunch of wild flowers with the most exquisite scents, shades and shapes in full bloom, majestic and delicious.

We are coming into coffee ground, where coffee fields extend as far as we can see, always under the shade of huge trees, that give this area a special freshness and tropical beauty.

We go past Kakanakote forest and as usual choose the roads less taken, which might be a little more broken, but on the other hand much more beautiful and peaceful.

Though my backside is sore from yesterday’s long hours on the bike, I focus on how I feel inside, looking past the discomfort and my heart is so happy it brings tears of joy to my eyes for the deep gratitude I feel for being blessed with such infinite abundance and even with the privilege of having Pedro as the driver, careful and confident, always knowing which way to go. This gives me such a freedom to just BE that I cannot even express in words how deeply grateful I feel.

We stop by a shrine lost within the jungle and get to experience being Tarzan and Jane flying (or trying to) on a suspended liana. It is not as straightforward as in films and we have a good laugh at each other’s jungle skills. This place is like a scene from Indiana Jones’ adventures and we are transported to an imaginary scene, as “Raiders of the Last Ark”, yet with the tangible feel of sacredness.

Time to move on.

We eventually come to Hunsur, a town with the usual noise but much cleaner than towns further up north.

You know, a funny thing here is that trucks all have these words on the back: “Please Horn”, so hooting is part of the process of avoiding accidents, it is how drivers make their presence known. Of course then there are some that take this to the extreme of hooting incessantly, as if they had an automatic buzzer on the tip of their fingers that leads them to cumpulsively press the button. There are habits for all tastes, as anywhere.

We eventually stop for the coconut drink we had promised ourselves yesterday. Hummm... it tastes divine. Coconut production is one of the area's strong sources of income, no doubt.

Refreshed and ready, we are.

We are in the Coorg mountainous area and almost arriving at Madikeri so we start paying attention to signs for Home-Stays. Here there are lots. We stop at some, go up the winding mountain road into town to buy some bananas, carrots and tomatoes and then come back down to the first house we saw.

It is around 5 pm and we decide to call it a day. Yesterday was heavy duty so today we are taking it easier.

The room we are given on the top floor has a balcony and some chairs to sit outside, as well as a laundry rack so I dilligently wash my clothes once again.

There are two very interesting things in the bathrooms here in India – one is a bucket with a small plastic bowl – I suppose it’s for us to wash ourselves instead of using the shower directly. Don’t really know the purpose, other than of course eventually saving water by letting it pour into the bucket until it gets warm. Well, one way or another it is very practical for my clothes washing chore.

The other thing is that in most toilets there is no toilet paper. Not even at private homes. People use a pipe tap that rests right beside the toilet instead. Lots of paper waste saved! That’s for sure! And it is cleaner too.

Another peculiarity I had found strange last night was that there was no top sheet on the bed, but the same happens in this house, so I come to realise it is a common practice in the South of India – the bed has a cover, which we are intended to sleep on, and then there are blankets, in the very remote case we get cold. Well, it sure is simpler, but the bed cover is a bit dusty…

One of the things I most enjoy about travelling is fitting into new circumstances and especially blending in with the locals. Both of us actually blend in pretty nicely, since by now we are both heavily tanned and having dark hair and dark eyes, it’s hard to define where we come from… Until we open our mouth to speak 😉

Out for a short walk... Marvelling at Nature's peaceful melodies...

We decide to sit quietly on the balcony and contemplate the magnificent view and when the sun goes down we turn in so that we can get up early in the morning to head to Dubare Elephant Park and more…

Once again a heavy storm decided to pay its compliments during the night so with a long power cut we are left with the wise option of surrendering to our beauty sleep :D

💙💚💛💜

Read Post 1 of this series here, post 2 here, post 3 here, post 4 here, post 5 here, post 6 here, post 7 here, post 8 here